cheering from the sideline

Time to sing the Italian praises of Marcella Hazan once again. Not only does she hold your hand though each intricate step of Italian prep, she walks you through the entire menu offering suitable sides for each dish. When you have lovingly basted and braised for half a day (as with ossobuco) the last thing you want are complicated accompaniments. Perfecting the “done before they arrive dinner party” means all components are in place prior to your guests arrival and ready for a last minute flash in the pan before sitting down to dine.

It’s baffling that one of the highest maintenance mains would request an equally challenging side. In Milan risotto is the traditional partner for ossobuco. While this elaborate grain is usually served as a first course here it makes a rare appearance as a sidekick. Risotto requires approximately thirty minutes of nonstop attention, which is fine when it’s date night but when you have your hostess hat on you need to look for shortcuts. Here is a heretic take on this Italian classic. Things come together seamlessly when you have all ingredients measured and ready to go. 

Dice the procuitto.

Chop the onion.

Measure out the Arborio rice.

Heat the chicken broth to just the boiling point in a microwave safe measuring cup.

Over medium heat sauté the diced prosciutto and chopped onion in 3 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons vegetable oil.

When the onion turns translucent add all of the rice and stir until well coated.

Add the white wine and stir until evaporated.

Add ½ cupfuls of simmering broth, stirring frequently until evaporated (make sure the rice does not dry out completely and stick to the bottom of the pan.)

Half way through stirring in ½ cupfuls of simmering broth (when the exterior of the grains of rice are slightly tender but the interior still firm) spoon the risotto onto a cool heavy rimmed baking sheet. Let cool completely, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. This can be done hours ahead of time.

Right before serving melt a tablespoon of butter in a clean stock pot, add the risotto, stir to coat and continue with the ½ cupfuls of steaming broth until al dente. The risotto should have a creamy exterior and a slightly firm interior.

Check for seasoning. Stir in the remaining two tablespoons butter and the finely grated parmesan cheese. Add a few twists from a pepper mill and taste to see if any salt is needed.

Spoon hot rice onto a hot platter and serve immediately.

To round out the meal make peas with prosciutto. It comes together in a matter of minutes. The secret- frozen baby peas.

Heat the olive oil and garlic cloves over medium-high heat until the cloves are well colored. Remove the garlic.

Add the diced prosciutto and sauté for one minute.

Add the thawed baby peas, parsley, a pinch of salt and several twists from the pepper mill.

Combine, cover and cook for four minutes on medium heat. Test for doneness and seasoning.